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Posted by Doc Dave [70.192.217.165] on Saturday, December 22, 2012 at 07:33:33 :
In Reply to: Got my cab back posted by Justin in NJ [71.59.91.52] on Friday, December 21, 2012 at 23:14:02 :
You are getting good advice here.
What really helped me when I started over 10 years ago on my first PW is to consult experienced people here on the forum and expert auto body people at:
autobodystore.com
They have a forum as well as instructional videos, etc. I learned a great deal there as well as bought many needed items like a fresh air system for safety to breath while painting.
I live here in the east too, and so humidity is an issue we must deal with immediately after blasting. What I do is apply a product called Picklex-20 immediately to the metal, and this allows me time (if kept in a garage, etc.), to then apply the primer. I believe this is a phosphoric acid product, and will give you several weeks of rust prevention before you prime, but not indefinitely. After several months I have seen some rust eventually start to develop on unpainted parts.
There are several good paints, but I followed the advice of many here and went with one "system". I chose PPG and have been happy with them. I use their epoxy primer on bare metal. As an epoxy, it DOES keep something from rusting unlike conventional primers like you see in spray cans. You do have to top coat it within 3 days with your color, or you have to then scuff it to then top coat it after this "window" of time.
For sheet metal panels I use their (hardened) urethane color for a top coat. For axle and frame parts, I use their (hardened) enamel product, which is cheaper.
If the sheet metal surface needs some "surfacing" to fill minor dips, etc. I will use the "hi-build" primer that can be easily sanded down, between the epoxy and top coat.
For bigger dips, etc., I apply piclex, (let it dry well), body filler (and sand it out flat of course), then epoxy prime, then hi build if needed, then color.
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