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Posted by Kevin in Ohio on Saturday, February 28, 2009 at 13:38:44 :
In Reply to: Re: frame rivet and bolt question posted by Marty on Saturday, February 28, 2009 at 12:37:57 :
I know a little about getting them out ;) over 150 on the project I'm working on. Core drilled them all to get them out. I think most factory frames were probably cold set anyway. As David pointed out, holes Are punched on frames and they are tapered to a small extent. Standard clearence on auto punch and dies is .008 and heavier steel allows more so it can develope a good amount of taper and roughness. Makes them lock REAL good.
All kinds of trade offs come into play with this. If you paint everything, then assemble you have a soft layer that can wear/crush when fastened together. If you fasten bare, you have a place for rust to start as most have found out with the Power Waqons sandwiched frames. Doesn't matter is it bolted or riveted together when it's rusted through or swelling. All strength is lost so you have to pick your poison I guess.
I wouldn't loose any sleep over a multi bolted/riveted piece. If you want to worry think about theat SINGLE 1/2" or so piece of steel that connects your steering arm to a ball joint. I had one of those snap on time at slow speed and that will fill your shorts in hurry!
I'm not going original so that doesn't effect me and not planning resell anyway. Totally agree with you on your points.
On a side note we do some compression tooling at work. About 10 inch diameter X 3 inch high die button holders are heated and the carbide inserts, about 2 inches in diameter, are frozen. We bring the 2 together and press them in with simple arbor press,
Once they come to the same temp you'll NEVER press them out without breakage.