Posted by Jerry in Idaho [172.68.174.19] on Monday, April 30, 2018 at 13:21:15 :
I know there are some current and some former surfers here, so I hope everyone else will forgive the deviation and enjoy the brief video. I used to get freaked out on a wave in the 10' range. I don't know how they do it now, but in the old days a wave's height was measured from the back, not the front. 80' is terrifying.
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