Posted by Willy-N [108.162.216.23] on Wednesday, January 06, 2016 at 02:24:13 :
In Reply to: Re: I would go with Franz posted by Franz [108.162.216.19] on Tuesday, January 05, 2016 at 19:37:04 :
OK I spent some time looking at your system and see you have built one that works with no moving parts but a drain valve. Not sure I could fit a 6-8 ft tube on my truck to do the same thing? One problem I see is yours is in a heated garage not outside in say 10 degree weather which would freeze your drain valve and water that drips down the sides of the pipe to the valve below. If your valve freezes up it will blow out the sides of the ball valve if any water is left in it. One reason you never leave ball valve fully closed or open in the winter due to trapped water on the cavity around the ball. I know lots of water tender operators who busted many ball valves after they drained the system but closed the valve all the way or open! I could put a gate valve in but then again any water left in the tube during the winter will freeze solid in the valve. Not sure how this could work for my set up inside a 18" square x 30" tool box? Be great for my 5 hp 80 gal set up in my shop except for the freezing part it is not heated and I have to heat the compressor oil to start it if it gets to cold in there. Now I know why my sand blaster kept clogging up it was water vapor and I will correct that next time. I did keep the water out of my sprayer when I painted the truck but did nothing for the sand blaster. I am just trying to fill the tank and keep the lines from freezing up running it. Air Brake dryers have seemed to solve this for many years and yes have moving parts, a heater and air operated water purge system built into it. At this point it is to late to send all the hoses back and dryer when it gets here to experiment with another system to see if I can make it work right. I did upgrade to 1/2" air hose on the compressor run to the dryer and tank back to the air use fittings. The air line to my air gauge is still 1/4" but there is no real movement of air in it and it is getting cool dry air from the tank not right off the compressor. I will still have to drain my 3 gal air tank but I have had to do that to all my compressors and it is not hard to do once in a while. I can charge up the tank when I need it for tires and my hydraulic/air jack for changing a tire. If it can work a Air impact for the lug nuts that would be nice too. I do have my 120 VAC 3500cont/7000peak watts inverter to run my 3/4" electric one on the truck also if needed. To me the Bendix system has been proof tested on commercial trucks for a long time and it was only $135.00 plus shipping way less then a good inside compressor dryer with out a 12 VDC heater for the valves. I need the stuff to work/not freeze up in 0 deg weather also and not worry about it. That is why I went with what I did. Tried several times not using one and the compressor just froze up the lines even when it was not as cold. The compressor dose not freeze just the lines after the water vapor cools down in them leaving the hot compressor outlet. If it does not work I will be surprised and eat some crow like on the wiper motors I put on my truck that do work nice now. Just took a while to get it all adjusted and wired right. I don't give up easy on things even if there new to me. Been doing a lot of reading on the subject also and still don't understand the dew point process. My brain won't let me keep all the numbers in a clear picture to understand it well.