Posted by clueless [201.202.24.222] on Thursday, May 07, 2015 at 11:12:17 :
on the biggest day(sun) of the swell
still waiting to see if anyone got a pic of lil ole me
when i came in a friend of mine said somebody asked him out in the line up who is that guy? did he just go on that wave? how old is that guy?
surf at the island wraps in around the island and reels for about 200yds.
after that session i went and looked at roca loca--one of my fav. spots but it was beyond my capabilites perfiect(empty, no one in sight(site) 25 foot spitting barrels that you could have driven a truck thru
swell was still here yesterday probably hitting cali bout now
sorry for the ot folks that aren t into this but i don t know where else to share it and seems to be few on this site that appreciate the sport of surfing
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