Posted by Vaughn on Saturday, May 19, 2001 at 3:34PM :
Thought I would pass on a problem I had and what I found was the cause.
About a year ago, my amp meter started registering 25-30 amps all of a sudden. Although I wondered what might be causing it, I didn't worry too much, the battery was staying charged and everything seemed to be working ok.
About two weeks ago, my amp meter would charge when the engine was cold and fall back to a zero charge after the engine warmed. I took of the voltage regulator and filed the points, polarized it once again, the amp meter then showed a charge and little later the problem returned.
I thought maybe the problem might be the generator so I took off the wire going to the arm terminal of the voltage regulator, set the engine to a fast idle, and struck the wire against a ground resulting in nice blue sparks indicating the generator was working. So I thought the problem was the voltage regulator. Went to NAPA, gave the OEM number and they gave me a VR204 voltage regulator.
After installing the new regulator, system was charging although still at the high rate and worked for a couple of miles on a test run. I thought the problem was resolved until I went for a drive the next morning, same old problem returned. Now I thought I better look at the generator so I pulled it off. After taking off the Commutator end plate assembly, I looked around, bushes were still in good shape, but I found that the wire connecting the two fields had one layer of masking tape that had finally gave up creating a short. I thought to myself, "who in the world would put only one layer of tape to insulate that wire"
The bare part of the wire is about 2 inches long so I got a piece of heat shrink rap, cut it the length and then down one side. I put that on and the rapped with electrical tape. After putting the generator back on, the amps now read 7-10, problem solved and it's back in normal operation!
For those of you that may have a high amps reading, you may want to pull your generator, check the following:
1. Brushes - These should be about an inch in length;
2. Look for shinny areas on the armature and fields. That's an indication of a worn bearing and bushing that you'll need to replace,
3. Rap that wire!
Parts
Up-to-Engine T137-16311
(6 volt, 35 amperes)
Voltage Regulator CC#1571161
Brushes CC#1253367
Bronze Bearing CC#636804
Ball Bearing CC#602454
After-Engine T137-16311
(6 volt, 45 amperes)
Voltage Regulator CC#1641510
Brushes CC#1253367
Bronze Bearing CC#1402563
Ball Bearing CC#602454
After-Engine T137-16311
(6 volt, 50 amperes)
Voltage Regulator CC#1627012
Brushes CC#1253367
Bronze Bearing CC#1402563
Ball Bearing CC#602454
After-Engine T137-16311
(6 volt, 55 amperes)
Voltage Regulator CC#1343122
Brushes CC#1253341
Bronze Bearing CC#102829
Ball Bearing CC#965325
After-Engine T137-16311
(12 volt, 30 amperes)
Voltage Regulator CC#1642333
Brushes CC#1658521
Head, Commutator End CC#1658526
Ball Bearing CC#602454
After-Engine T137-16311
(12 volt, 40 amperes)
Voltage Regulator CC#1662137
Brushes CC#960544
Head, Commutator End CC#1501791
Ball Bearing CC#602454
Provide the CC# to NAPA for correct part for your truck.. Good Luck!!
P.S. Joe, if you read this, please post in the glove box. Thanks
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