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Posted by Keith in Washington [24.41.44.238] on Tuesday, May 17, 2011 at 13:04:53 :
In Reply to: fuel sender help posted by JaSAn [70.59.112.228] on Tuesday, May 17, 2011 at 11:35:37 :
My 51 B3PW has a single terminal on the sender see wiring diagram below). Where do terninals 1 and 2 go to. One I assume goes to the gauge but what about the other? (see 2nd wiring diagram below) If the second one does not go back to the gauge and simply goes to ground I suspect you have the wrong sender. There are 2 wiring diagrams one with a two wire and one with a single wire sender there are at http://www.dodgepowerwagon.com/main/b1_wiring.jpg
and
http://photos.imageevent.com/powerwagon/flatfenders/C3PW-6Volt.jpg
Note that the Fuel gauge is different for each system. One has a 2 terminals and the other has 3. I believe that you should have the 2 terminal gauge with a single terminal on the sender. The other system was used on the earlier B1PW. My truck is an early B3PW and has the single wire at the sender as should yours. But who knows what Dodge did and what left over parts they had or if someone changed your system.
You should not have to take the rivits out. The sender should have a metal cap that covers it'stapered coil. It is held on with a small tab that is bent to hold it into position. Check the coil to see if it has worn through and is clean. also check the inside of the cover to see if the top of the coil is rubbing it. If so push lightly on the coil to bend the tab down so the coil will not touch the cover. The rivits simply hold the coil, the terminals and their insulation in place. There should be no reason to take it apart. You just need to remove the cover to check it out.
You also did not say what your fuel gauge is reading. If it peggs itself on full when you turn the key on then there is a short in the sender or wire going to it. You may also have a bad gauge. Check it to make sure that the tiny wires going ftom the terminals and the coils in the gauge are not broken. If they are you can use a small solder gun to reattach them.
My gas gauge was also not working and was pegged at Full. It turned out that I had problems with both the sender and gauge. The cover on the sender was shorting the coil out intermittently but tested fine with the cover off. My gauge had one wire to one of the two coils that was broken. This caused the gauge to peg out at full as there was no counter balancing magnetic field from that coil. You will notice that the gauge has two coils. This balances the electro magnetic field that deflects the gauge needle. One coil has a fixed resistance. The second coil works with the coil in the sender to give you a variable resistance based on the amount of fuel in the tank. This varaiable resistance controls the current going through the the one coil and therefore the strength of the magnetic field from that coil deflecting the needle. It is litterally a balancing act between the one coil and the other coil and the sender's goil to get the needle to deflect to the correct position. That is why you need to have the correct sender for the gauge.