Posted by Chriscase [75.36.46.4] on Sunday, December 12, 2010 at 11:18:20 :
In Reply to: starter won't start posted by chris [207.212.155.198] on Sunday, December 12, 2010 at 03:04:49 :
Flat head, I assume, since you said starter pedal.
Check the battery terminals for clean and tight. If it has cheapie clamp on ends, replace the whole cable, them ends are emergency, short term only. Corrode severely, severely fast.
Could be the switch on the outside of the starter, that the linkage pushes on. Easy to disassemble and clean out a dead bug. Only two screws.
But first, I would go ahead and give it a whack.
Next, unscrew the two through bolts to loosen the end, and shake the end around. retighten the screws,and try it.
When nuthin happens, brushes are the most likely culprit. The sit in holders in the end cap. If the jiggling arouns didn't fix it, pull the atarter, remove the through bolts, then the fork that activates the switch, and disaasmble the mafojot components. End cap will be loose, brushes will pop out of their holders. You'll need a hooked wire to pull back each brush spring and slid each brush out 'backwards' past it's spring. Brushes are totally shot when the springs hit the bracket and wont push on the brushes any more. The brushes will stay hooked to the body. Clean the crud out of that area. Note the thick thrust washer? Remove it too,and clean it, it is an important piece during re-assembly.
Now reassemble, pull back springs and insert brushes. You might be able to only partially insert the brush, with the spring end pushing against the side, holding the brush half way inserted. Now you use the big ole washer at this point to hold the brushes open, washer floating in air, while you release the brushes. Holds the brushes apart, leaving room for the commutator, the copper part on the armature. Then, position end cap, brushes held open, on to case, and install the armature. Armature will push the thrust washer in, releasing the brushes to make contact. Re-assemble the rest of the starter and try it.
To replace worn out brushes, you need a BIG soldering iron.
To replace bushings, about $2 each, use a big tap to remove the old ones, turn it in to make threads, then just keep turning, using the tap as a puller.
To replace the bendix/starter drive, push the retainer ring on the end of the armature back using a socket and a hammer, then remove the wire circlip using two pairs of pliers. Re-install in the right order.
Field windings seldom go bad, but can get burned up if you crank too long. (Armatures usually burn up first, the weak link.) You'll need that BIG soldering iron, and a funky screwdriver tool to loosen the big flat head screw in the case that holds each field. The real shops use a clamp gismo that holds the driver in the slot, we need to fight it,maybe using a hammer and chisel to turn it.
And that ought to get anydamn starter back on the road.