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Posted by Grant in CO [66.129.51.243] on Saturday, April 17, 2010 at 18:27:06 :
In Reply to: Powergiant Windshield Wanted posted by Sal [129.42.208.179] on Saturday, April 17, 2010 at 17:36:46 :
Here is info from the long missing Larry B. He had a glass shop in TX. Gar
The windshields are still available, in both "tinted", and "shaded" (same as tinted, plus a 5 inch dark green band across the top).
Our trucks were originally equipped with "clear"(no tinting or shade whatsoever), however, that version has been discontinued.
PPG part: # DW425GTN (tinted) - Retail list: $525.45
PPG part: # DW425GBN (tinted & shaded) - Retail $525.45
Can be purchased for about $225.00 by any auto glass company or body shop.
The correct windshield gasket(rubber), is also available still.
Made by "Precision Rubber Products Inc.", and it is top quality!
GASKET: Pt# WCR D425 - Retail list: $63.29 Jobber= less 25%
It fits perfectly, has the correct moulded lower corners, and
the correct groove for the lock-strip insert.
The lock-strip comes in black rubber, 5/16" round (as original).
Or mylar chrome, approx. 5/8" wide (flat).
BLACK LOCK-STRIP: pt. # WLS900 - $11.75 ea.
CHROME Lock-strip: # WLS913/914 - $28.85ea.
IF YOU WOULD LIKE MY PROFESSIONAL OPINION, (26+YRS)
I WOULD OFFER THE FOLLOWING RECOMENDATIONS:
FIRST - DON'T WASTE YOUR MONEY ON ANY OTHER GASKET, FROM ANY OTHER MANUFACTURER! YOU'LL PAY ABOUT THE SAME OR MORE $$ , AND WHAT YOU'LL GET IS UNIVERSAL, INCORRECT, ILL-FITTING, POUROUS, LEAKING, NON-UV PROTECTED, DRY-ROT IN A YEAR, WORTHLESS GARBAGE!! PERIOD!
SECOND - IF YOU CHOOSE TO USE THE CHROME MYLAR LOCK-STRIP, BE AWARE THAT IT WILL BEGIN TO DULL AND DETERIORATE AFTER TWO OR THREE YEARS OF EXPOSURE TO THE ELEMENTS. JUST LOOK AT ANY '73-'87 GM TRUCK, OR PRE '90'S BMW 3 SERIES CAR, THAT HASN'T BEEN COVERED OR GARAGED FOR ALL OR MOST OF ITS LIFE, AND YOU WILL SEE IT'S BROWN AND CRISPY.
THIRD - AGAIN, WITH REGARD TO THE LOCK-STRIP, BOTH THE BLACK AND THE CHROME WILL SHRINK SOME OVER TIME, CREATING AN EVER-WIDENING GAP. TO COMBAT THIS SHRINKAGE, BE SURE TO CUT THE LOCK-STRIP ABOUT AN INCH OR SO LONGER, OVERLAPPING THE POINT WHERE THE TWO ENDS WILL MEET,OR "SEAM" TOGETHER, IN THE MIDDLE AT THE BOTTOM OF THE WINDSHIELD. THEN, USING A SHARP BLADE, CUT EACH END CLEANLY & SQUARELY TO MAKE THE MOST INVISIBLE SEAM
POSSIBLE. ONLY TRIM A TINY SLIVER AT A TIME OFF EACH END UNTIL YOU ARE SATISFIED WITH THE APPEARANCE OF YOUR SEAM. THEN YOU CAN FORCE THE OVERLAPPING EXTRA INCH OR SO DOWN INTO THE GROOVE CAUSING THE TWO ENDS TO PUSH TIGHTLY TOGETHER. AS TIME GOES BY ANY SHRINKAGE OF THE LOCK-STRIP WILL BE OFFSET BY THE EXTRA INCH OF LENGTH THAT WAS SQUEEZED INTO THE GROOVE, AND THE SEAM WILL STAY TIGHT INSTEAD OF WANTING TO PULL APART MAKING AN UGLY GAP.
OR, YOU CAN OBTAIN A CHROME COUPLING CLIP FROM ANY '70-'91 DODGE FULL SIZE VAN, TO HIDE THE SEAM COMPLETELY.
WHICH IS HOW THE FACTORY SOLVED THE PROBLEM OF THE UNSIGHTLY GAP. THE CONNECTOR IS ABOUT AN INCH LONG, AND SIMPLY HID THE EVER-WIDENING END GAPS UNTIL THEY HAD SHRUNK UP ENOUGH THAT THE CONNECTOR CLIP FELL, OR BLEW OFF SOMEWHERE ON THE HIGHWAY OR THE JET-WASH.