Posted by Charlie on May 22, 1999 at 15:16:52:
In Reply to: Help w rear axle disassembly posted by Mark on May 22, 1999 at 09:16:43:
To remove the hubs you must remove the wheel bearing retention nuts with a big "special socket". Then the hub should come off with some encouragement by wiggling/pulling, maybe a soft hammer. Make sure the wheel bearings and races are good, if they are then repack them with good grease. there's a big deal about not mixing greases of different bases. Follow the directions in the manual (get the manual if you don't have it; the M37 manual will work for a Power Wagon; get all 3: parts, Organizational Maintenance, and Powertrain/Body/Frame Maintenance, plus engine/clutch if yours isn't a re-power). The inner nut is tightened till very tight, then back off 45-60 degrees. then put the retaining ring and retaining nut according to directions. The grease seal for the axle shaft and the paper gaskets hould be replaced. The brake drum seal is optional depending on whether it's been leaking. Likewise, if the wheel bearing were tight prior to removal (the tire wasn't clunky-loose when jacked up), the grease was present and clean and the bearings and races look good, it's not necessary to replace them. Races are hard to get out. they require a lot of work with a drift or a puller, and need to be installed with a press or carefully with a drift. It helps to put them in the freezer before installation to make them smaller.
Generally, if you are changing ring and pinions, it's a good idea to change pinion and side bearings, although if a professional carefully removes them and pronounces them healthy, they are re-usable. Tapered bearings are easily damaged (the cage is fragile) during the removal process.
Are you changing gears or adding Lockrights? If you are tearing into the rear diff a Lockright is a good addition, part cost only $250. A pain to install due to the wierd carrier of the Dodges. I have a friend who does that stuff for me, I give him some of my take-out parts like flatheads.
Charlie