| Subject: |
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just because its new, doesnt mean its gonna work...... |
| Name: |
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wideblock |
| Date Posted: |
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Nov 14, 08 - 6:15 AM |
| IP Address: |
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71.222.236.156 |
| Email: |
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wideblock@msn.com |
| Message: |
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over the past month or so i have been fighting my heater in my 1966 d100. it would only blow warm, never really got hot, nor did it do anything to warm the cab on these 35degree mornings. first thing i did was to check the t-stat and find it had a 160 in it, so i swapped it out to a rather expensive (but high quality) high flow 180 unit. i completely flushed the system out as well while i was doing the swap...unfortunatly, it did no good. so i looked into the heater box at the core to see it filled with dust and crap, got it all cleaned out, looks almost new, that too yielded little to no results. checked my controls, they work proper. got to looking at my vents and they were not closing completely, thus letting cold air in the cab constantly. i thought to myself, "ha i got you now" i got the vents adjusted to close all the way, but yet still saw little improovement. as a last ditch effort i pulled and cleaned the squirrel cage on the fan. that helped a lot in air flow, but it still wasnt warm. so i have done everything i can think of, nothing has worked, and im getting a little miffed. during my flush i saw the core flowed well and wasnt blocked, the flow coming out of the heater pipe on the block was strong, i have a new t-stat, everything is clean and from what i see should be roasting me out of the cab...so WTF is up?? so yesterday i was giving the old truck its weekly check over with oil, water level and such and i noticed the water in the rad was a little dirtly again. maybe i didnt get it flushed completely?? so i pull the upper hose, cram the water hose in the rad neck and fire the truck up. figured i would let it warm up and then flush out the block a few cycles again. to my surprise as soon as i cranked it water started flowing from the upper hose. HUH??? this water was ice cold. so i turned the truck off, and removed the hose from the t-stat housing to get a look inside. i see my new high flow stat high flowing wide open with the truck completely cold. that s.o.b. was stuck wide freaking open. so i pulled it, took it back and got another new one. this time i tested it on the stove in hot water, its working. i get it installed and call it a night. on my way in this morning my temp gauge was reading dead in the center, not the 1/8 to 1/4 gauge it has been, and my heater was keeping the cab as comfy as i would expect with the air leaks i have. my entire drive in all i could think of was all the work i did because of the damn faulty new t-stat. did it need to be done??? of course it did. the trucks over 40 years old, im sure all i did was a good thing. but, my NEW t-stat was the freaking problem the whole time. it wasnt working any better staying wide open then the old one was at such a low temp. just remember guys, just because something is new or recently replaced, dont leave it out of your testing. i thoughgt o myself a couple times, "it acts like the t-stat....naw cant be its NEW!!" then i went on. new doesnt mean it works, always check it all. might save your self a lot of cussing and frustration..... |
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