Re: DISC BRAKES


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Posted by Keith on Monday, July 08, 2002 at 3:00PM :

In Reply to: DISC BRAKES posted by ERIC on Thursday, July 04, 2002 at 4:49PM :

I recently did the fronts only on my M37, and upgraded to the 1 ton chevy MC at the same time. Vastly improved braking and worth the cost, but it is still not power brakes. Ray's work is excellent.

Couple of tips from this shade tree mechanic:

When you buy your calipers, ask the part man for a "loaded" set. If you do not specify this, you will get the calipers only, and then you will have to hustle the pads and pins and it will cost more $. The parts number info on the instructions do not mention this point.

Using Ray's instructions, you will end up with 1/4" line from your master cylinder to the front flexible line, but from there to the outside front flexible lines you will step down in diameter to 3/16" line. Between the main (frame to axle) flexible line and the 1/4" you will need an adaptor fitting. No big deal but I did not gather this from the instructions.

I could not have done the job without a 4" grinder as the axle housing required much grinding to fit a .025 feeler gage between the caliper and the axle housing. Do this fitting without the pads on the caliper.

I found it easier to disconnect the ball joints when fitting the caliper (grind, refit, grind, refit) than to flatten the pins as the instructions direct. Used a ball joint separator to remove and a floor jack to reinstall.

Be really careful (as Ray instructs) not to strip threads when running the caliper pins into the bracket.

Be sure to get a good double (not single) flaring tool for your new brake lines.

Bleed the brakes before you reinstall the wheels.

For reasons I still do not understand, bench bleeding this MC results in a big mess and no benefit. Install the MC dry.

Be sure to have both new inner front seals before you begin.

Wrench On!



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