Re: DISC BRAKES


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Posted by Brian in Oregon on Thursday, July 04, 2002 at 6:23PM :

In Reply to: DISC BRAKES posted by ERIC on Thursday, July 04, 2002 at 4:49PM :

I only did a dry run on installing the kit, because I may use an axle that has new bearings. However, even the dry run, with finger tight bolts, was easy. The kit is well designed and simple.

From the Helitool website:

Our disc brake conversion kit for Dodge Power wagons includes the following:

1. 2 ea. 3/8" thick wheel spacers.

These take the place of the old drum and keep the lug nuts from bottoming out.

2. 2 ea. 3/8" plate steel caliper brackets.

These bolt directly to the knuckle with no modification or welding required.

3. 2 ea. hubs with rotor mount flanges.

Welded in place and machined.

4. 16 ea. 5/8" NF X 1" grade 8 socket head bolts.

For attaching the rotors to the hub rotor flanges.

6. 10 ea. 1/2" NC X 1 1/4" grade 8 bolts and lock washers.

For attaching the caliper brackets to the knuckle.

6. 2 ea. brake hoses, adapter and banjo fittings

7. 4 ea. new bearing races installed

Price: $475.00 plus shipping and two serviceable hubs.

You will need to purchase the following locally:

1. 2 ea. 78 - 87 GM 3/4 ton 4X4 rotors:

NAPA #TS4885677 (True-stop brand) $47.00 ea.

2. 2 ea. 71 - 78 GM 3/4 ton 4X4 calipers (right and left)

NAPA # 342-2022 & 342-2023 $38.00 ea. + $20.00 core charge

This is the price PER AXLE. Double it if you are putting discs on the front AND rear axle. My cost was very close to the above. If you have a AAA card, some NAPA's offer up to a 10% discount. The above does not take into account any seals or bearings or races that may need replacing. That really is not a factor on the kits price, since you'd likely incur that servicing the drums and hubs anyway. But you do need to plan for it.

One other thing. You may or may not have to have some wheel studs replaced. Ray has run short on these, and some of the core hubs he turns around might have to have a stud replaced. The cost is not a lot, but it does happen. Contact him to find out about the status of this. I bought new studs and shipped them to Helitool, and Ray kindly installed them for me. Ray is very accomodating of his customers, and takes pride in service.

You also should take a look at his website for the master cyhlinder upgrade. This is not a kit, but just instructions for doing the uprade. The main cost is for a Chevy 1-ton master cylinder. I can't quote a price, because a neighbor gave me a new one his shop had laying around. If you are doing both a front and rear disc brake conversion, you really ought to also include the manifold valve setup from a chevy truck as well. This is set up so when you first apply the brakes, the rear brakes engage first, then the main force is proportioned to the fronts. The reason is so on a slippery surface the rears are lightly applied first. It is a subtle difference for sure, but can help maintain control on black ice.

I drove Ray's 318 powered M37 with his disc brake conversion and Chevy master cylinder. The braking effort was less than with the original setup, despite no power booster. I really don't think a power booster is needed. The truck stopped quite easily, and felt like a lighter truck.






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