Posted by Charlie on September 30, 1998 at 20:42:02:
In Reply to: MU-2 WINCH posted by STEVE ELLIOT on September 30, 1998 at 18:12:07:
See TM 9-8031-2 "Power Train Body and Frame" manual.
1) There is a hole at the end of the drum at the edge with a set screw for the end of the cable. A ferrule woould be nice, but just a lot of black tape is actually sufficient for the drum end.
2) Definitely keep the chain and hook. In real life it's nice to wrap around a tree, and when winching other vehicles typically the attachment point is underneath, and a sharp metal edge can damage a cable under tension. Likewise, a wraparound setup doesn't help the cable when the hook is around the cable. I use 6-10" of highest strength 3/8" alloy chain with big slip hooks on all my winches (using both 3/8" and 7.16" cable). The best way to hook the cable to chain is a professionally done loop with thimble and ferrule, either directly through the last link of the chain or using an adequate shackle.
3) Regular steel "improved plow steel" cable is MUCH cheaper than stainless and somewhat stronger. There are special cable oils available to prevent rush; I pour waste oil over the drum once in a while (and repeat after 180 deg. rotation) and put a drain pan under for the night.
4) I'd advise 7/16" cable. These types of winches (the Bradens on PWs and M37s) have big capacities (you can put 75% as much 7/16 as 3/8 on any given drum) and 3/8 is borderline for the weight of the rigs and the potential power of the winches. The likelihood of kinking goes down geometrically as the size of the cable goes up. "A cable is only as strong as its' weakest point"; a kinked cable might need shortening or replacement. I use 7/16 on my 10,000 lb rated Braden AHSU3s; 3/8 on my 8000 lb Ramsey RE8000 electric on my diesel Landcruiser.
5) For parts try Vintage Power Wagons, or Braden. Braden has a site under Braden and/or Paccar and/or Gearmatic. Many parts in current product match 40-50 year old winches!
Charlie