Re: Exhaust leak


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Posted by Sherman in Idaho [108.162.246.23] on Monday, May 16, 2016 at 13:29:57 :

In Reply to: Exhaust leak posted by Keith in Washington [108.162.246.30] on Monday, May 16, 2016 at 10:57:17 :

If you have any sort of acetylene torch, cracks are not too hard to braze. Much easier on cast iron than welding. Grind a good V on the outside of the crack and braze it up. It fine to have plenty of extra material piled up over the crack. For machining the mating surface, a sheet of coarse sandpaper on a smooth surface like a table saw will get you started and at least show you how warped it is. A stationary belt sander will do a decent job of evening it out if you're careful, although a machine shop shouldn't charge much to grind it flat, and it's better to grind the intake and exhaust together (bolt both to the block, bolt the two together, tighten up those bolts, unbolt from the block, take the whole thing to the machinist). If the mating surfaces around the heat riser are really bad, there is a guy near Mt Rainier (don't remember the company) who sells "problem solver" gaskets made out of a crushable graphite material that are supposed to accommodate the worst pitted manifolds. Have not tried it myself, but some have had good results with them.

Bottom line is don't be afraid of cracked manifolds. They're very common on these engines and are easy to fix by brazing.



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