Posted by David Sherman on Friday, April 06, 2001 at 9:02PM :
In Reply to: Replacement Shear Pin posted by Drew Rogers on Friday, April 06, 2001 at 1:15PM :
My $.02 worth:
1. I'm at least as cheap as the next guy, so I use grade 2 bolts. The only truck I've seriously used the winch on is the M35 and I can say that grade 2 bolts definitely shear well before anything on the 10,000-lb "light duty" winch gets damaged. The official pins for this winch are 1/4" hard aluminum.
2. When replacing the pin or getting a new truck, make sure the shear pin shaft can freely turn in its sleeve with no pin installed. Often if the fit is tight, the shaft and sleeve will rust together so that the winch will pull hard even without a shear pin. If that happens you'll break something expensive no matter what kind of shear pin you use. Put some grease on the shaft when you put it back together to help keep it from rusting.
3. Along with a couple spare shear pins (or grade 2 bolts or whatever you use) keep a grade 8 bolt in the truck just in case you shear the shear pin in a do-or-die situation where a disaster worse than a broken U-joint will ensue if you can't use the winch right away. That extra bit of strength might just be enough to do the job without breaking anything else.
4. If the pin is not sheared clean off but is only slightly bent due to an overload, it is a bitch to get out. If the old one doesn't come out easy, that might be why.
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