Re: Unsticking a stuck motor


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Posted by Sherman in Idaho [72.47.9.37] on Thursday, September 13, 2012 at 22:24:19 :

In Reply to: Unsticking a stuck motor posted by Matt (California) [99.108.167.81] on Thursday, September 13, 2012 at 21:37:58 :

Some guys would say "junk it, it's a Chevy". I'm partial to the 292 because it's what came in my grandpa's'67 pickup that I'm still driving today. I recently picked up a rebuilt spare, so it'll stay 292 until I can't afford gas. It's a good reliable old engine with pretty good low end torque.

As for unsticking, some guys swear by ATF, or a 50/50 ATF/acetone mixture. Some say let it sit a month with the cylinders full of diesel. Will it rock at all, even a little bit? If so, keep working it back and forth a bit every few days and it'll probably break loose eventually. Once you have runny oily stuff soaking into the rust, time is your ally.

You're sure the clutch isn't stuck or something? If it gets to where you're looking at tearing it down and overhauling it anyway, you might as well pull the head and the oil pan off while it's in the truck and see what's going on. You can leave the manifolds attached to the head, so you don't need to mess with rusty manifold bolts, getting sucked into getting it machined, futzing with the heat riser, etc, at this point. All you need is a head gasket to put it back on. You always need a donut gasket for the exhaust outlet anyway, as they seem to only last a couple years. Maybe you'll see it's so bad you don't want to mess with it, but if it still looks reasonably clean inside, you can try unbolting the con rods and seeing if you can get the pistons to move individually by knocking them up and down via a hammer and a block of soft wood. Turning the crank really gives you very little leverage to force the pistons up and down, so it doesn't take much rust to stick them. Be careful not to gouge the crank journals with the dangling ends of the con rods. Best disconnect the battery so nobody attempts to run the starter.

I'm not sure about your pouring stuff "into all the orifices"? You mean not just the spark plug holes? If so, then all that stuff is going straight down into the pan. Of course you'll drain it and put clean oil in anyway before you fire it up.



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