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Posted by D Sherman [72.47.9.228] on Thursday, October 27, 2011 at 22:40:27 :
Well, the engine swap is getting more complicated. I thought I could pull all the external stuff off of my blown engine and put it on the Plymouth engine, but I'm finding all kinds of things that are different. First I noticed the oil filler tube and dipstick on the civilian engine are sheet metal tubes that press into smooth hole rather loosely. I might be able to tap the dipstick hole for the military screw-in dipstick, but the civilian block doesn't even have bosses for the holes for the bolts that hold the military filler tube in place. Then I went to swap the timing cover and crankshaft pulley so I could use the larger military pulley which spins the generator and fan faster, but I found that I can't use the military crankshaft pulley nut because the crankshaft is drilled and tapped smaller for a simple bolt. This is really weird because the civilian powerwagons have a hand-crank nut on them so they must use a different crankshaft than plymouth cars. Oh, and the tapped hole in the head for the temperature sender is too small as well.
I had no idea that the actual block castings and crankshaft were different between the military and civilian engines. What other surprises am I going to find?
I did pull the head and found that the cylinders look good, but I have one stuck rusty valve and another rusty one that's not stuck but doesn't seat very well. I can put in valves from the blown engine, but I haven't looked to see if the seats are acceptable. I sure hope so because this truck isn't worth any machine shop work. The oil filter can had lots of sludge in it, so I assume the pan does too and I better pull it and clean it off. Of course at that point it's tempting to "freshen it up" with new rod bearings and rings. How do I know if the cylinders have been bored out? None of the pistons has anything stamped on it, so does that mean they're not oversized?
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