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Posted by Grant in CO [66.129.51.243] on Sunday, June 20, 2010 at 09:43:02 :
In Reply to: Re: Precision Rubber Products contact? posted by Joe Cimoch [68.116.181.98] on Sunday, June 20, 2010 at 08:23:25 :
Hey Joe, they have the proper rubber for Power Giant windshields. Here is an old post from the MIA Larry Bissaillon. Gar
The windshields are still available, in both "tinted", and "shaded" (same as tinted, plus a 5 inch dark green band across the top).
Our trucks were originally equipped with "clear"(no tinting or shade whatsoever), however, that version has been discontinued.
PPG part: # DW425GTN (tinted) - Retail list: $525.45
PPG part: # DW425GBN (tinted & shaded) - Retail $525.45
Can be purchased for about $225.00 by any auto glass company or body shop.
The correct windshield gasket(rubber), is also available still.
Made by "Precision Rubber Products Inc.", and it is top quality!
GASKET: Pt# WCR D425 - Retail list: $63.29 Jobber= less 25%
It fits perfectly, has the correct moulded lower corners, and
the correct groove for the lock-strip insert.
The lock-strip comes in black rubber, 5/16" round (as original).
Or mylar chrome, approx. 5/8" wide (flat).
BLACK LOCK-STRIP: pt. # WLS900 - $11.75 ea.
CHROME Lock-strip: # WLS913/914 - $28.85ea.
IF YOU WOULD LIKE MY PROFESSIONAL OPINION, (26+YRS)
I WOULD OFFER THE FOLLOWING RECOMENDATIONS:
FIRST - DON'T WASTE YOUR MONEY ON ANY OTHER GASKET, FROM ANY OTHER MANUFACTURER! YOU'LL PAY ABOUT THE SAME OR MORE $$ , AND WHAT YOU'LL GET IS UNIVERSAL, INCORRECT, ILL-FITTING, POUROUS, LEAKING, NON-UV PROTECTED, DRY-ROT IN A YEAR, WORTHLESS GARBAGE!! PERIOD!
SECOND - IF YOU CHOOSE TO USE THE CHROME MYLAR LOCK-STRIP, BE AWARE THAT IT WILL BEGIN TO DULL AND DETERIORATE AFTER TWO OR THREE YEARS OF EXPOSURE TO THE ELEMENTS. JUST LOOK AT ANY '73-'87 GM TRUCK, OR PRE '90'S BMW 3 SERIES CAR, THAT HASN'T BEEN COVERED OR GARAGED FOR ALL OR MOST OF ITS LIFE, AND YOU WILL SEE IT'S BROWN AND CRISPY.
THIRD - AGAIN, WITH REGARD TO THE LOCK-STRIP, BOTH THE BLACK AND THE CHROME WILL SHRINK SOME OVER TIME, CREATING AN EVER-WIDENING GAP. TO COMBAT THIS SHRINKAGE, BE SURE TO CUT THE LOCK-STRIP ABOUT AN INCH OR SO LONGER, OVERLAPPING THE POINT WHERE THE TWO ENDS WILL MEET,OR "SEAM" TOGETHER, IN THE MIDDLE AT THE BOTTOM OF THE WINDSHIELD. THEN, USING A SHARP BLADE, CUT EACH END CLEANLY & SQUARELY TO MAKE THE MOST INVISIBLE SEAM
POSSIBLE. ONLY TRIM A TINY SLIVER AT A TIME OFF EACH END UNTIL YOU ARE SATISFIED WITH THE APPEARANCE OF YOUR SEAM. THEN YOU CAN FORCE THE OVERLAPPING EXTRA INCH OR SO DOWN INTO THE GROOVE CAUSING THE TWO ENDS TO PUSH TIGHTLY TOGETHER. AS TIME GOES BY ANY SHRINKAGE OF THE LOCK-STRIP WILL BE OFFSET BY THE EXTRA INCH OF LENGTH THAT WAS SQUEEZED INTO THE GROOVE, AND THE SEAM WILL STAY TIGHT INSTEAD OF WANTING TO PULL APART MAKING AN UGLY GAP.
OR, YOU CAN OBTAIN A CHROME COUPLING CLIP FROM ANY '70-'91 DODGE FULL SIZE VAN, TO HIDE THE SEAM COMPLETELY.
WHICH IS HOW THE FACTORY SOLVED THE PROBLEM OF THE UNSIGHTLY GAP. THE CONNECTOR IS ABOUT AN INCH LONG, AND SIMPLY HID THE EVER-WIDENING END GAPS UNTIL THEY HAD SHRUNK UP ENOUGH THAT THE CONNECTOR CLIP FELL, OR BLEW OFF SOMEWHERE ON THE HIGHWAY OR THE JET-WASH.
All civilian style (conventional cab) Dodge trucks used the DW425 windshield, beginning with the 1955 "C-3"(second series) that debuted on April 11, 1955, As did the "D" 100-800's , and the "W" 100-500's up through '60 for the pick-ups and larger trucks with regular cabs ( the rear wall & rear window directly behind the bench seat).
A new body style began for 1961, and uses a DW605 from '61-'71. The Town Wagons & Town Panels retained the DW425 until the end of
their production run in the fall of '66 . The DW425 windshield continued in use in the largest Dodge trucks, such as the diesel and gas powered semi-tractors, such as "C"SERIES 500-1000's , "CT"800-1000's , "CN"800-1000's , "CNT"900-1000 tandems, and finally the last of the Dodge heavy duty haulers, the infamous "BIGHORN", which finally became extinct in 1975! WHEW!! Well, there you have it! Had enough history yet? I sure have... at least for today anyway!
Y'all take care! Feel free to ask me if you need help with glass.
Later, LB
Subject: Re: [tw-list] Townie Glass
Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1999 22:11:18 -0500
From: LarryBissaillon <LBglass@swbell.net>
Reply-To: tw-list@onelist.com
Organization: LBGlass
To: tw-list@onelist.com
From: LarryBissaillon <LBglass@swbell.net>
LBglass@swbell.net wrote:
From: LBglass@swbell.net
>
> Hey Alan, Couple of ways you can go,"laminated"
> glass like our trucks came with, comes in clear,
> lt. green, lt. grey, bronze, and, "Ford" green
> (standard auto tint). The grey is very light &
> is not nearly as dark as even the lightest "window
> film" tint. Also, if you go with "lami" you have
> to worry about cracking,fogging,de-lamination, &
> discoloration! Especially if the glass has exposed
> edges or is movable like on our trucks!
> I recommend going with "Tempered" glass for any
> flat parts, it's only about $5.00 to $10.00 more
> per piece depending on the size. It is still
> safety glass, like modern cars, takes 10 times
> the abuse of laminated, is 10 times as scratch
> resistant etc., will never crack, fog, de-laminate,
> or discolor. Also, any exposed edges can be polished
> beautifully like a table top etc. On my '58 W100
> TW, I eliminated the sliding side windows in favor
> of 1 pc. non-movable ones, to cure rattles & leaks.
> And because my TW has A/C. Consequently, I don't
> have any patterns for the "sliders". I do have
> correct patterns for the rt.& lft. doors & vents,
> and the rear door glasses, as well as for the solid
> 1pc. sides like I put in mine. If anyone still has
> all the good original sliders for patterns, I can
> reproduce them also. Approx. cost is $75.00 per
> piece for the "tempered" including any edge polishing.
> And in any color. Laminated a little less.
> Let me know if I can help? Good Luck all!
> 6-23-'99 9:45pm Larry B.
>
>
Hey Alan, I forgot to mention that the 1/4 inch plate glass used to
make the "tempered" comes in 3 shades of grey lt., med., & dark. I
used the dark for all but the frt. door glasses & vents where I used
the medium grey, which is about equivalent to 20% film tint, ( legal in
all states)for driver's & passenger's forward. All windows to rear of
driver can be as dark as you want.
Hey Mike, I own an auto glass co. in the Dallas/ Ft.Worth
area. The windshield gasket is pt# WKT-435 and is available here
from PPG or LOF, both auto glass suppliers. Any "auto glass co."
should be able to order it for you. As for rear door glass rubber,
several styles of universal rubber (sold by the foot or roll) that
will work perfectly. I have enough in stock to do both your rear
doors. Let me know if I can help? I can ship you the W/S gasket &
the "univ." rubber if you can't find it where you are!
Good Luck! Larry B.
LBglass@swbell.net