|
|
Posted by David Sherman [216.18.131.43] on Sunday, February 21, 2010 at 04:19:25 :
In Reply to: MU-2 teardown... posted by Jon Kelly [98.197.106.42] on Saturday, February 20, 2010 at 23:37:06 :
The good news is the bushing in your end cover might not need replacing. There is nothing to hold the cover to the shaft except stiction in that bushing. Mine came off easily, but that's because the bushing was badly worn, like every thing else, due to it having been run a lot with no oil. The cover is a tight fit in the housing, but since you say the cover is turning "with the shaft", it must be loose of the housing at this point. There is nothing in particular in there to hold it. The steel shaft runs in a bronze bushing so rust should not hold it very tight.
Since you have the screw gear out, which means the big gear should turn freely, I would try breaking it loose by bolting the cover back down, engaging the drum clutch and rotating the drum as hard as possible in each direction until the shaft turns. If it's really stuck, you might be able to get some penetrating oil, AFT, diesel, or whatever down into the bushing by pouring a cup or so in through one of the plug holes and turning the winch up on end so the cover plate is down. Let it soak a while and then try working the drum back and forth some more. Once the drum is turning in the housing, unbolt the cover plate and try pulling it off again. For these kinds of situations I like a pair of crows-foot pry-bars (ones with right-angle bent ends). Put one under each side and pry equally on them. This gives a straight pull rather than a pull that's coc.ked to the side and liable to jam the bushing on the shaft. Go pretty easy on it because too much force could break the cast iron cover. If you don't have the special pry bars, any pair of pry bars should work. Just get a balanced force on it.
You will not be able to pull the drum shaft out of the gear housing in the direction of the drum until you get the cover off and the big gear removed, because the shaft keys that hold the big gear in place will hit the inside of the housing. So, don't waste time or break something trying to pull the shaft out until you've removed the gear and its keys, which means that cover has to come off first. I'm sure the above method will work. The crow's-foot pry bars might also be needed to get the gear off the drum shaft, though my gears (old and new) were a pretty sloppy fit.
Another approach that might work is to strip everything off the outboard end of the drum shaft, unbolt the cover, and slide or pound (with a brass or lead hammer, or steel hammer and a block of wood) the shaft with the big gear and the end cover attached in through the gear housing. This assumes you have the screw gear out, or else the big gear will hang up on it. Then, with the cover, shaft, and gear out of the housing, you'll have a lot more options for getting the cover loose from the shaft.
I was also going to mention, since you destroyed the filler plug, that when you replace it, drill it with T-shaped passages for a vent. At least that's how mine is: one hole drilled across the flats (parallel to the top of the plug) and then another hole drilled from the inside just far enough to meet the cross hole. This keeps rain and dirt from going straight in, but allows the gearbox to breathe. The holes are about 1/16". There's probably enough clearance where the drum shaft goes through the housing, which has no seal on it, to provide a vent, especially if things are worn out, but this deliberate vent probably helps keep it from drooling too much oil out around the shaft with temperature and pressure changes. Of course when putting it back together, be sure to put the drilled plug in the top and a solid plug in the bottom. The little plug on the side is to check your oil level.