Get it started straigt !!!


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Posted by Chriscase on Tuesday, July 28, 2009 at 21:15:31 :

In Reply to: The other factor, percent of thread posted by David Sherman on Tuesday, July 28, 2009 at 13:58:13 :

Biggest problem in the home shop is getting it started straight.

On small parts, the drill press can be used as a "tapping machine". DO NOT EVER TRY TO TAP BY MOTOR. Let me repeat: DO NOT EVER TRY TO TAP BY MOTOR. Unplug the drill press to prevent stoopid mistakes. If you insert the butt end of the chuck key into the chuck holes, it makes an excellent handle to turn the chuck, with the tap in the chuck like a drill bit. You have to feed the tap, like a drill bit, by pulling on the DP handle as you turn the chuck. Start threading, just 2-3 turns. It ought to start perfectly straight, in the same hole drilled by the drill press. Then loosen the chuck, and finish tapping in your vise.

Getting a tap started straight on large/in chassis parts is different. You ought to use a "tapping block". It is a block of hardened steel, about 2x3, with an assortment of holes. Each hole is a slight bit oversize, to clear taps, which are also slightly oversize. Simply hold the block to the surface, insert tap, and crank away. The block should hold the tap perpendicular, I hope the hole is also perpendicular. or all bets are off.

By the way, there are also better taps, they have spiral flutes and are usually high speed steel instead of carbon steel. Not so brittle. And the reverse spiral pushes the chips down as it curls them up. No need to twist two steps forward, one step back. These taps will make two long chips, twisted together, and push them down and out of the hole. Tougher than hi-carbon, they are what machine shops use for powered tapping.



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