Posted by Jackson Reimund on April 25, 2000 at 02:04:33:
In Reply to: Re: i lost page 23 how do i get there again posted by Tired Iron on April 24, 2000 at 13:27:43:
Tired Iron,
This is a copy of part of a letter I sent To Gordon Maney. I have no trouble at all with Rustoleum paint with a spray gun. I use only Rustoleum can’t say about any other brand. Try less air pressure at the gun. I don’t try to get it all with one coat. Two to four coats are much better. Thin to taste and go with the flow.
My M-37 has been my primary driving and work truck for thirty years. From the beginning I started with Rustoleum off the shelf. I found the quality of the paint to be very high, absolutely color correct from batch to batch, easy flowing (brush or spray), and available any where. However over the years I wanted colors not produced by Rustoleum in their standard line. Knowing that the three primary colors (red, yellow, and blue), the secondary colors (green, brown, etc.) Would be a absolutely consistent match down the years I knew I could mix what I wanted and rely on Rustoleum to be exact.
The formula for the Olive Green I use Just broke down that way as I wanted to keep it simple and easy to duplicate off any shelf any where any time. You can play around with the ratio easy enough by adjusting the ratio, (4x5),(3x2), etc. You can add a bit of a third color if you want to change the tint. But it becomes harder to match consistently and you run the risk of muddying up the color . A one to one, or 1 can to 1 can mix keeps the tone clean as opposed to a drab (more brown).
One of the quality’s I like about this Olive Green is that it reminds me of several at the same time. Forest Green US Army, Submarine Sea Wolf Green, Satin Green US Army, and USMC Green. What I would call a “quality consistent compromise.” A phrase that sums up I think the whole working ethic of these old trucks.
Formula; Satin Olive green
One part (can) Rustoleum Hunter Green #7738
One part (can) Rustoleum Leather Brown #7775
One part All Purpose Flatting Agent PPG #DX 265, etc.
For spraying gloss thin with Rustoleum thinning oil. Be careful and don’t over thin. Do some testing here because you will want two or three smooth finish coats to get a deep coating. Rustoleum gloss will fad in the sun as it doe’s not have the super duper epoxy hardeners and will need waxing to keep the shine. Imagine that waxing an old truck!
For satin finish, thin the two part gloss mix with 1/3 part All Purpose Matting Agent. This agent is lacquer based and will mix just fine with enamel and is now spray ready. This dilution is actually a little to thin at this point, nothing to do about it, but it shoots well and flashes off well. Don’t try to spread it on thick just spray smooth and add coats to get it deep. Here again you will need to shoot at least three or four smooth coats to build a deep finish. Two will do but it will go thin in time as it sun fades and oxidizes. To keep it fresh just wash. Make sure that the agent is fully stirred up as there is a lot of material in suspension. The same goes for spraying keep the pot shook up. Because this is lacquer I mix for satin only what I need at the time. It will hold in the can for weeks or months spray ready but the shelf life is reduced for the full mix as the lacquer is reacting to the enamel.
For black on the frame, bumpers, fenders etc. I use Rustoleum Satin Black #7777. Thin with thinning oil or lacquer thinner or shoot straight on frame or running gear. Of course when any metal is paint ready I prime with Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer #7769 which is a damp proof red oxide primer.
I hope this is what you are looking for and if you have any Questions just ask. Let me know how it works for you.......Jackson