More critical is how it runs under load


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Posted by chriscase on Sunday, January 02, 2005 at 10:50AM :

In Reply to: I don't recommend this method posted by George in NW Michigan on Sunday, January 02, 2005 at 9:09AM :

Initial timing should be where it starts best- if it sounds constipated retard it a couple degrees. If it wants to start but won't get beyond spinning fast, advance slightly. Usually 10btdc is good for start and idle. But you have to compromise unless the distributor is re-curved to suit todays gas, and todays usage of the vehicle. A road test full throttle uphill in 4th shouldn't make any discernable pinging (rattling noise in engine), if it pings retard it a couple degrees and try again. Once a good 4th gear position is found, check your initial timing, hoping for 5-10 degrees. If not, you'll have to get inside it to tighten or loosen the advance springs in the distributor til you get a good initial of 5-10 degrees, and still have the best under load performance. Unlesss you have a van with a rear dist, you should pull the dist for any work inside it. Distributors have about a dozen parts, they are not too complicated. Lube it up while inside, a drop of oil does wonders for smooth operation. Just don't put the weights on backwards if you take it apart that far.

On the 318 and 440 distributors you can twist the pins that anchor the springs, they are eccentics. Use a pair of dikes to grip them from the top. On the flatheads you'll have to stetch the spring for more advance, or cut off a coil and re-bend loop for less.

Yes, you'll have to buy, beg, borrow, rent, or steal a timing light to do a proper tune up.



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