Re: Amsoil. Is it worth it?


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Posted by Bob in NY on Thursday, April 01, 2004 at 11:18PM :

In Reply to: Amsoil. Is it worth it? posted by Chris Lube Lublin on Thursday, April 01, 2004 at 12:28PM :

I think Amsoil Synthetic lubricants are the only way to go,based on what i have learned over the years. Here is a rough idea on how i believe it works: A fact about all engine oils is that they are all made up of two basic components, A.a base stock and B.an additive package. Your run of the mill motor oil is commonly referred to in the lube business as mineral oil or petroleum oil. In the distilation process of crude oil, the crude is heated at various temperatures to a gaseous state then condensed back to a liquid, one of the earliest gases to boil off is Ethylene (motor gas), then kerosene, then fuel oil then diesel oil, then lube oils, then waxes, then asphalt in that order. A synthetic oil begins as Ethylene and is refractured into a polyalphaloefin (PAO), this PAO is used in synthetic oil as the primary ingredient in the base stock, with an additive package made up of chemical compounds that act as: Dispersants to keep carbonized contaminants suspended until they get to the filter, Detergents to keep engine parts free of carbon build up (the carbon that gets past the rings in combustion), Neutralizers to combat acids also from combustion, Defoamers to keep the oil liquid and a plating compound to prevent wear. With Amsoil you get the highest quality additive package in the business. Mobil-One is a good step up from regular mineral oil but a far cry from the level of achievement that Amsoil has arrived at. Amsoil was first with an API approved engine oil back in 1972, decades ahead of all the other companies. As you see in the distillation process your run of the mill mineral oil is just above waxes and asphalt. That's why it gets thick when cold, waxes still in the oil harden. This is pretty poor quality for a lubricant to start with, hence your 3000 mile oil changes, (keep pouring those bucks into the big oil companies pockets). As a matter of fact most regular motor oil starts to breakdown around 1500 miles, as the solvents added to attain a certain viscosity begins to evaporate. Amsoils viscosity is attained naturally as there is no waxes or parafins that would require solvents. If your engine doesn't leak now, it won't leak with synthetic either, the economy is there also, with as much as 3 times the drain interval you are now using, pluses are: easier starts, better mileage, less wear, less changing hassle. A My vehicles, four trucks, a car and tractor are all on Amsoil, one of the trucks is a 1948-B1-flat fender with complete frame off resto and rebuild.(All Amsoil front to back. As you might have guessed, I am an Amsoil dealer (T1 Certified), but when you know how regular motor oil is made and how Synthetics are made, there is only one choice. I was a Mobil-One user for years, until a master mechanic put me on to Amsoil, and I have never looked back since. Chris, that old Cummins engine will think it died and went to heaven if you introduced it to Amsoil...... you won't be sorry. Incidentally there is no voiding of warranties of any vehicle manufactured and sold in the USA, based solely on the type of engine oil used. A warranty can be voided only if it is proven that the oil failed, and was at fault. (To my knowledge this has never happened with a quality synthetic). My two cents (the old big Penny style)
Bob in NY.



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